By Todd Staley
A writing assignment first brought me to Costa Rica
in 1987. Being an outdoor journalist, I was very excited
to test some of the country’s “world famous
sportsfishing”. This trip brought me in contact
with the late Archie Fields and we became immediate
friends. While sitting on the veranda of his famous
Rio Colorado Lodge, I asked Archie if he ever needed
someone to run his lodge I would like to be considered.
He chuckled and said I was about number 1000 on the
list.
I returned to the States and told all that would listen
that I didn’t know how, but one day I would be
living in Costa Rica. In the meantime I sought out
other Costa Rican writing assignments and began bringing
groups of fishermen down to Costa Rica.
In June of 1991 Archie called my house in the US and
asked me to “think” about coming down and
managing his fishing lodge. I took less than three
seconds to think it over. In the next three months
I condensed my life belongings to 7 suitcases and 35
fishing poles and headed for Costa Rica.
In Barra del Colorado where I lived there are no cars.
The river, creeks and canals are the streets and avenues.
I worked long hours often going as many as three months
without a day off and loved every second of it. I used
Norman Paperman, the character in Herman Wouk’s “Don’t
Stop the Carnival” as my relief when problems
arose concerning employees or guests.
I was awestruck by the culture of the Caribbean side
of Costa Rica, especially the stories told to me by
the older generations. I met people with zero education
but with more wisdom than anyone I had met in my life.
The people are a mix of Spanish, African, several types
of Indian and Chinese. For the first time in my life,
through this experience, I came to believe in “magic” both
black and white.
For nearly five years I lived in the jungle. Today
I’m in the concrete jungle, but you would have
to drag me back kicking and screaming the whole way
for me to give up the lifestyle I have grown accustomed
to in Costa Rica.
What worked for me is that the first thing I did was
throw any American attitude I may have had down the
river that flowed in front of the lodge and immersed
myself in the culture, language and people. Tuanis!
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